Research shows that the number of clothing purchases per person worldwide increased by 60 percent between 2000 and 2014, yet those items are kept for only half as long. And then the ‘disposable fashion’ from clothing giants Shein and Temu entered the market… In terms of reuse, recycling such ‘throw-away’ fashion is not an option. The clothing is largely made of  cheap polyester and there are no good large scale recycle techniques as yet.

Consequently, market conditions for the Dutch textile recycling industry have been heavy for some time now. Due to a reduction in sales prices to sorting companies of more than 30% in the first half of 2024 – caused by a lower value of second-hand clothing in combination with substantial cost increases to storage non-recyclable items – the continuity of textile collection companies is in immediate danger.

The Dutch Textile Recycling Association VHT now notes that the crisis is spreading across the sector and is also manifesting itself in the collection of textiles. As co-owner and communications executive Mariska Boer of textiles collector and sorting company  Boer Group and VHT chair puts it: “Make it mandatory as part of the ESPR, that 5 percent of the materials used must consist of post-consumer textiles. 5 percent will be enough to have a flywheel effect on our industry.”