Thousands of perfluoroalkyl and polyfluoroalkyl substances (PFAS) have been with us since they were invented in the 1940s to prevent stains and adhesion. These PFAS chemicals are used in many products such as water-repellent clothing and firefighting foam. Unfortunately – known as “forever chemicals”- they do not break down in the environment and have proven to assemble in human bodies gradually.

In the US, more and more states have PFAS bans to make clothing companies find less toxic alternatives. The bans are aimed at keeping these kind of chemicals – which have been linked to cancer and other health effects – out of new products. Nevertheless, these measures do not affect the continued sale and circulation of existing PFAS-made products in second-hand markets.

According to a recent report by the online resale retailer ThredUp, the used-apparel industry has grown to $177 billion in global sales in 2022 and is expected to double to $350 billion by 2027. However, as Mike Schade – director of environmental group Toxic-Free Future’s Mind the Store program – puts it: “Should we really continue reselling products that contain fundamentally hazardous chemicals? A circular economy is going to be a complete failure if we recirculate dangerous chemicals.”